28 Sept 2008
Well, we survived another week from hell. Due to long working hours, we haven't been able to even grocery stop (stores here are only open 8-8), and although we go out for dinner, lunch and breakfast are dire (rice cake with margarine anyone?). Finally however I hit the grocery with gusto yesterday and am well stocked. Sunday, the 28th, we got up unbelievable early for a Sunday and caught the 8:30am train to Naples. Now I am apt (as those who go climbing with me know) to not read the details in the guide. What I read was "Naples is southern Italy's leading city, offering a fascinating collection of museums, churches and eclectic architecture". Then I met an English woman who said all her friends told her not to go to Naples. I asked why, and she said "they just say don't go". Then we met a Canadian girl on the train who said her friends said "don't go to Naples, whatever you do". So, I decided to read the guide again which also says Naples is Italy's third largest city and is also the grittiest, most polluted and most crime ridden city. Oh, well, I think people exaggerate. And they do. We thoroughly enjoyed our time there. It is definitely dirtier than Rome and much less "classy", but the narrow streets with life hanging from every balcony are intriguing.
Straight for the train station - after going the wrong way only once ;) - we reached the medieval arch that is the entrance to the Napolese fish market.
The entrance to the Royal Palace.
Portrait of the many kings, of many different nationalities that have ruled Naples.
A view of Mount Vesuvius from the castle.
One man band on via Toledo, a street closed partly to cars, with lots of people and lots of vendors and shops.
Another narrow street. The heart of Naples is old and narrow and the home of the infamous Camorra family (Naples organized crime). The only thing we had to worry about though were scooter drivers.
The ceiling of the church at the piazza Mercato - church ceilings are always cool.
The old opera house - Teatro San Carlo. Apparantly it is the second-most-respected opera house in Italy and is certainly is grand.
Piazza Dante, where Dante looks down upon the people dribbling gellato and scrawling graffitti at his feet.
Although we were not able to make it to Pompeii this trip (another 35 minutes on the train), all of the artifacts from Pompeii are at the Archeology Museum in Naples. The most interesting are the large roman statues. I don't actually remember if these were taken from Pompeii or not though.
The Toro Farnese, the larges intact sculpure of the era. Something about a woman offending the gods, so she is tied to a bull.
Just another downtown apartment - but only the Camorra's can afford it though.
Naples is the birthplace of pizza. Swaroop enjoys one at the Pizzeria Trianon - one of the older pizzerias in Naples.
Another narrow street with a cool archway.
I enjoy some grilled calamari and eggplant with arrabbiata sauce - one of the best meals I've had in Italy yet.
